El Mirador

I should have realised how hellish the journey from Lanquin to Flores was going to be when I went on my ATM foray to Coban mid week. Collectivos get a bad rep because the drivers tend to pack twice as many Guatemalans into a mini-bus than it can cater for, but then Guatemalan’s are only […]


You’ve been up since 4am and have just spent 5 hours on a crammed collectivo across unpaved highway and then had another two hours in an equally crammed bus in the midday heat across more unpaved highway. But its all worth while when you walk up to the gates of El Retiro hostel in Lanquin […]


I hate going back on myself. I don’t know what it is but I’ll go to any length not to have to go back they way I have already come. Even if it means heading for the not often visited highlands near Nebaj to be cold, wet, and share a bath with a complete stranger.

Lago de Atitlan

“Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitl├ín is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.” Said Aldous Huxley, but then he ended up going all trippy and taking too much mescalin so what does he know? On […]


The Lonely Planet has some quote along the lines of “in the conversation about which city typifies Guatemala, Antigua is definitely not on the list. Its like the Scandinavians have moved in for a couple of years and cleaned the place up”. And you know what, its not wrong. Antigua is some bizarre continental construct […]

Copan Ruinas

So I’d planned to chill in Copan. I figured I’d zoomed through a fair amount of Honduras and after a days traveling to get here I deserved it. There’s some ruins, there’s some trekking, and there’s even a few bars. But one slight hiccup. There’s no water.


The funny thing about Utila, is that its a bit of a black hole. Time just seems to disappear into it. So whilst I remember arriving, and I remember leaving, I’m not entirely sure what happened to all the bits in between. Caye Caulker was taking it easy with Tim and Stu, but Utila brought […]

La Ceiba

White water rafting, 30ft cliff jumps, and an idilic location on the bank of the Rio Cangrejal, the little green book was right when it said that backpackers end up staying here longer than expected. Just 10 km up river from La Ceiba, I stayed at the Jungle River Lodge, the sister hostel to the […]

Belize to Honduras

So how does your fourth successive day on a boat, vomit, dodgy immigration, lots of guns, crazy traffic and a three and a half hour bus journey sound? Sounds like your average journey from Belize to Honduras.

Raggamuffin Sailboat Trip

For the past three days and two nights I have been wearing nothing but my swimming shorts, haven’t seen an ounce freshwater (to clean with), have been sleeping in a tent, and have done a lot of swimming. I was going to try and liken it to Glastonbury, but I see now that apart from […]